How do we find hidden gems? You can't just look under the radar. Sometimes the hiding place is behind a famous name, as is the case with ArtBar, in the shadow of the Sonesta's justly celebrated Dante bar-restaurant. Critics were likely scared off ArtBar by a negative preview in the BostonGlobe — forgetting Nadeau's law that the only restaurants that improve in response to reviews are those in big hotels. (Why? Because they are subsidized to support the hotel's image, and the hotel likely isn't going anywhere.) The current version of ArtBar, with executive chef Ryan Cyr, is an entirely delightful New American bistro, whether you want something as familiar as clam chowder ($8) with a perfect balance of bacon and seafood flavors, or as unusual as barley succotash (really a kind of crunchy risotto) on the innovative vegetarian entrée ($24). Cyr and his team could even start a trend with the four-bite, three-buck desserts they call "small bites, because a little goes a long way." Who really needs more than a triple-shot glass of tiramisu ($3), after all, when it is well-flavored and creamy?